PERFECT FOCUSSurfer: Tommy Curren Location: Backside Rincon Year: 1981 This forced perspective of a young Tommy Curren perfectly captures his ability to focus on his flow, even when surfing below average waves like this Carpenteria beach break.

and tube ride to come

but one application of the art

shot shortly after signing a sponsorship deal with Ocean Pacific sportswear

Available to ship: September 5

It’s not the section lifting up in front of this surfer that tells the story

Foreword: Sam George

Surfer: Jabe SwierkockiLocation: RinconYear: 2023

which probably explained why I was the only one who hooted when Australian Cheyne Horan pulled off a last-minute backside 360 to win the event

in order not to waste any ride time if they were to fall

preparing to throw themselves into the lineup at the Santa Barbara Harbor’s Sandspit during one of the 1983 El Niño’s biggest swells

The villains

December 19 th